san francisco | waiting game.

you may have resigned yourself to the neo-spiritual fact that he's just not that into you, but the savvy restaurateurs behind saison figured that you'll keep coming back, as long as they keep you wanting more.

joshua skenes (of chez T.J. in mountain view) and oenophile mark bright are the maverick minds behind saison. together, the duo sets up shop (dinner only on sunday night) next to the stable café in, you guessed it, a reno'd stable. you'll enter through the kitchen, where you're charmed by the chef and wine guru before meeting the kitchen staff, and the ingreds of your upcoming meal. think of it as speed dating for the culinary set, only the second date is just a few minutes away. once you take a seat, those veggies and meats you just met will end up on your plate in a four-course, prix fixe feast. each spot is considered a chef's table, where you'll see exactly how your food's being fired up. and the menus? of course at a persnickety resto like this, they're going to change with every visit. expect foie gras, abalone and fresh veggies finished with a locally grown plum tart. it might sound like it'll come with white tablecloths and 'tude, but with the laid-back feel here, you'll be rubbing elbows with fellow foodies and relishing every bite. saison keeps you wanting more with the once a week sched.

you can call yourself the waitress. saison. 2124 folsom street. at seventeenth. 415.828.7990.