under the tuscan sun.

forte dei marmi in the coast of tuscany is a favorite and historical summer destination for the italians. and now you. the mood is understated, life is slow and quiet, high society and locals get around with bicycles and the view of the mountains can be enjoyed from the beach. here's a look at where to bed down, eat up and play out in the city by the sea.

get twiga with it.
the mood and look at twiga beach is more saint tropez than forte dei marmi, but at night it turns into an open air club with a live band playing poolside. party with the italian celeb soccer players alongside their model girlfriends, and dance on tables while sipping caipiroskas. if the scene gets too loud, just kick off your shoes and take a walk on the beach. viale roma 2. marina di pietrasanta. 39.0584.21518. www.twigaclub.it


it's in the bagno.
for superior service and even better food, hit up private beach club bagno annetta. imagine monochromatic umbrellas, huts and little wood cabins lining the edge of crystal clear waters. with the sand meticulously cleaned every day and some of the best eats in town (pizza alla checca or gnocchi with tomato sauce that will melt in your mouth), enjoy the day with a superb bottle of vino. via achille franceschi 23. 39.0584.89314. www.bagnoannetta.com


medieval times.
just five minutes away by car is the medieval town of pietrasanta, where the likes of michelangelo to botero lived. here, the art galleries and stores are open at night, not to mention the famous wine bar enoteca marcucci, which serves award-winning eclectic food by candlelight right on the narrow street. and a must-stop is le zie di zoe, a tiny store and shopping gem for women, where designer clothing and accessories are picked with a exquisite taste. enoteca marcucci. via garibaldi 40. 39.0584.791962. www.enotecamarcucci.it. le zie di zoe. via garibaldi 29. 39.0584.70181.


arti gras.
sure the stores in the center of town offer the best of italian fashion, but so does madison avenue. the one of a kind accessory to bring back can be found at artigiano, an artisanal store that makes handmade soft suede boots and sandals in different colors, made to order. there might be a waiting list, but they're willing to ship the pair when ready. something to look forward to when the vacation is over. via roma 2. 39.0584.82364. www.artigianoforte.it


grando lando.
orlando, an institution since the 60s, is best known by the habitués than the common tourist because of its hard-to-find locale. open 'til late at night, the garden is a fave among families during the day, and a perfect hangout for clubgoers at night. the drug of choice? orlando's sig pie with custard and fresh berries, ordered by the slice. via c. colombo. 39.0584.80763. www.orlandopeople.com


mercato mile.
"market" in forte doesn't suggest fruits and vegetables. every wednesday and sunday morning, the ladies flee the beach to rush to the il mercato del forte in search of fine embroidered tablecloths, handmade ceramic pieces, leather goods, vintage furs and cashmeres. just be sure to get there early to beat the heat and the crowds, then cool down with a good ice coffee and donut at the milanese bar right on the piazza. wednesday and sundays. piazza marconi.


pizza da pie.
for many, an italian vacay is about the food. he may be grouchy, but the owner of da pizzino will keep you coming back for his tiny homemade pizzas and focaccia stuffed with porcini mushrooms, artichokes or fresh mozza and tomatoes. eat streetside, but be sure to follow the rules. via roma 8. 39.0584.80801.