san francisco | sibling rivalry.

sometimes it's best to sit back and learn the ropes from an older bro or sis. such is the case at barbacco, a new, no-frills italian eatery adjacent to proud big sister resto perbacco.

exposed brick walls, gunmetal-gray tiled floors with sunny yellow accents, and glossy walnut communal tables paired with chocolate-hued leather bistro-style chairs set the laidback vibe in this industrial, loft-like space designed by local firm, cass calder smith (veteran, perbacco). the lunch crowd? think coiffed, suit-wearing financial types, sleep-deprived day traders, and manolo-wearing downtown PR execs. they'll be smacking on the seared mackerel sandwich topped with fresh arugula and tomato, artfully prepared by chef sarah burchard (former sous chef of perbacco), or the local rock cod with leeks and braised potatoes drizzled with olive oil. after work, stop by for the sicilian meatballs with braised chard, tomato and pine nuts. or you could just skip straight to dessert. (think meyer lemon sorbet, vanilla panna cotta, and pistachio gelato). and don't think about leaving without ordering a drink. choose from more than 100 italian, california, and biodynamic wines (50 by the glass), and locally brewed draught beers on tap. yet another reason to believe that good things come to those who wait. words of wisdom passed down from siblings, of course.

bring your bro out for a bite. barbacco. 220 california street. at montgomery. 415.955.1919. now open for lunch. dinner starting january 18th. www.barbaccosf.com