choose issue:
april 2004

 
 
 

 
when in rome

you can just picture it. audrey hepburn holding on to gregory peck atop a blue vespa as they drive around il colosseo. the young and tired princess runs away from her seemingly restricted life and discovers all that rome has to offer. these days, the city is as romantic as it was in 1953, and with a plethora of restaurants offering up your favorite oriechette and thin-crust pizzas, it's even more reason to throw atkins to the wind and plan for a true roman holiday.


where to stay

es hotel
via f. turati 171
this new mod hotel opened in the past year with all the workings of an ian schrager hotel (sans ian), including an uber-chic outdoor, rooftop pool, flat-screen tvs, and rooms designed for the minimalist. located in the monti & esquilino area of rome, it's compared to new york's hudson hotel where downtown is just a taxi-ride away.
(+39 06 444 841)
www.eshotel.it


hotel de russie
via del babuino 9
the russie is a roman staple known for its hotel restaurant with rome's most beautiful outdoor garden. have drinks by day and you might spot the russie falcon flying about the garden chasing unwanted birds away. rooms are simple and elegant, lacking glitz.
(+39 06 328 881)
www.roccofortehotels.com


the hassler villa medeci
piazza trinita dei monti 6
you could almost picture the hassler in an old james bond movie with rows of mercedes limousines lined up at the entranceway. perched just above the spanish steps, the hassler is home to hotel elite. it's what you would picture a true roman hotel to look like including lots of gold and brocade, but it somehow works and works well.
(+39 06 699 340)
www.hotelhasslerroma.com



where to eat

tram tram
via dei reti 44-6, east
in san lorenzo

can you say mama mia? arrive at tram tram and you'll find an old italian woman waving her hands at you and welcoming you in. don't expect a word of english - just lots of promises in rapid italian that she will bring you the best. sit and enjoy the house specialties including fish, mouth-watering pastas, and traditional salads, while papa repairs the flashlight in the corner of the dining room. definitely a must visit.
(+39 06 490 416)
open 12:30 - 3:00pm,
7:30 - 11:30pm
tuesday - sunday


maccheroni
piazza delle coppelle 44
in navona

the locals shrug their shoulders as to why so many people love this restaurant. but just one visit and you can't get over the cavernous brick ceiling, bustling energy, and fun crowd maccheroni seems to attract. perhaps the pasta and other menu items aren't the best in rome, but the total package makes this place worth the visit. besides, the pasta is still better than anything you'll ever have in new york.
(+39 06 6830 7895)
open 1:00 - 3:00pm,
8:00 - midnight
monday - saturday



gusto's
piazza augusto imperatore 9
in tridente

gusto's may remind you of an italian version of william-sonoma gone restaurant. but its in-house store chock full of great treats for the kitchen doesn't detract from what even the locals think as a perfect brunch visit. the upstairs restaurant books reservations separately from the downstairs pizzeria and has a more extensive menu.
(+39 322 6273)
restaurant open 1:00 - 3:00pm,
8:00 - midnight daily
pizzeria open 12:30 - 3:00pm,
7:30 - 1:00am daily

www.gusto.it


costanza
piazza del paradiso 63-5
in campo del fiori

walk into this non-trendy italian, and you may not fully understand the delight. just ten steps to the left or right and you enter a room that feels like you are part of an old italian stone cellar. the waiters are some of the most friendly and flirty and go out of their way to offer you the best of their traditional italian menu.
(+39 06 686 1717)
open 12:30 - 3:00pm,
7:30 - 11:30pm
monday - saturday



enoteca corsi
via del gesu 87-8
in navona

this 1940's wine shop is a true local spot for lunch only. dine at old wooden tables amongst shelves of italian wines, and hope that you are not last to get your order in for the local's faves.

(+39 06 679 0821)
open noon - 3:00pm
monday - saturday



sette
via f. turati 171
if you crave a little italian mod (i.e. cassina chairs), head over to the rooftop of the es hotel for indoor or poolside dining. the surrounding glass windows and outdoor rooftop bar prove to be a rarity in rome.
(+39 06 444 841)
www.eshotel.it



where to shop

piazza di spagna,
via condotti, and the area
yes, shopping victim. the lire is no longer in existence and neither are the great prices that once drove you to stores like gucci, prada, etro and all the other couture spots that ran your adrenaline. but the areas near the piazza di spagna, as well as via condotti (the fifth avenue of rome) are still worth a look-see. you may find that stores like la perla are still worth the visit, with panties and bras at about 30 percent less than they are in the stati uniti.


via del governo vecchio,
in the pantheon & navona area
if couture ain't your thang, a visit to some of governo vecchio's vintage clothing shops may be in order. spotted down this street are old collections of what the 1960's and 70's italian generations must have been sporting during their convertible fiat driving days.


porta portese
via portuense from porta portese
to via ettore rolli
in trastevere

one of rome's biggest and most well known outdoor flea markets full of antique furniture, carpets, clothes, china and more.
open 5am - 2pm sunday



where to visit

the colosseum
piazza del colosseo
(+39 06 700 5469)
open 9:00am - sunset daily
admission: 8 euro



the vittoriano museum
complesso del vittoriano
paul klee on exhibit thru 07/04
via san pietro,
piazza venezia
open 9:30am - 7:30pm
monday - thursday,
9:30am - 11:00pm
monday - saturday,
9:30am - 8:30pm
sunday
admission: 9 euro



the opera:
teatro dell'opera di roma
piazza b gigli 1
esquilino
(+39 06 481 601)

www.opera.roma.it


italian cinema:
sal trevi 'alberto sordi'
vicolo del puttarello 25
trevi & quirinale

this cinema is dedicated to great italian classics by fellini, pasolini, sergio leone and others and is housed in a basement of an ancient archeological roman site.
(+39 06 678 1206)


where to play late night

bar del fico
piazza del fico 26/8
pantheon & navona
the sultry bar del fico was named after the signature fico (fig) tree just by the bar. it's perfect for midnight sofa lounging with a hip crowd.
(+39 06 686 5205)



bar della pace
via della pace 3/7
pantheon & navona
bar della pace remains the place for people-watching and fashionable roman crowds - especially during summer.

(+39 06 686 1216) 201




for more on destination travel,
visit the www.julib.com
travel library.