los angeles | noodist colony.

that natural approach might sound appealing, but keep your clothes on. it's the noodles that are going au naturel at caesars palace newbie, beijing noodle no. 9.

angelenos love to jet to sin city for a dose of glitz and gambling. how about a three hour tour in the name of slurp and turf? (or live-to-table seafood.) this meal couldn't be more authentic if you took a day trip to china, which is pretty tough. feast your eyes on the know-how of chef yu li as he makes noodles before your eyes. he's also making shout-outs to several regions of china on the well-rounded menu. think beijing noodles with sliced pork, beef pancakes and braised chicken (rolled to your table in a clay pot) and, for a dim sum fave with a sophisticate's flare, try the BBQ pork pastry, a delectable twist on the tradish pork bun. by now you're jonesing for those uniquely cultivated flavors, but you'll marvel at the digs even with a steaming dumpling at your lips. number nine is supposed to be good luck, but you know pure skill went into yukichi kawai's (of toyko's design spirits) take on the place. the look is as hot as their kung pao. six aquaria filled with 300 graceful ryukin goldfish decorate the entryway, and you'll show them what it means to "swim with the fishes" with one skilled stroke of the chopsticks.

eating in the nood? better stay in vegas. beijing noodle no. 9. at caesars palace 3570 las vegas boulevard south. las vegas, nevada. www.caesarspalace.com